Educational Resources

History

Hermès: A Legacy of Luxury and Craftsmanship

Deemed one of the world’s most valuable luxury brands, Hermès transcends the luxury industry, setting new trends and immortalizing its iconic products. The brand continues to emphasize the value of hand craftsmanship while honoring its rich history. Beyond design, innovation, and creative minds, Hermès has withstood modern market challenges, industry demands, and tightening competition due to its unparalleled legacy in the luxury market.

Origins and Early History

The Hermès Fashion House was established in Paris as a harness-making shop in 1837 by Thierry Hermès (1801-1878). Serving European noblemen, the shop created wrought bridles and harnesses for carriages, attracting stylish Parisian elite and European royalty, including Napoléon III and Empress Eugénie. In late 1879, Thierry’s son Charles-Emile expanded the line to include saddles and opened a new location near the Palais de l’Elysee.

Expanding the Brand

In 1922, Hermès introduced its first handbags, and in 1937, it opened its scarf factory in Lyon. Under Robert Dumas, Hermès in the 1950s introduced its iconic ties, the duc-carriage-with-horse logo, ribbon, and signature orange boxes. Jean-Louis Dumas, succeeding Robert in 1978, expanded the fashion house into home wares, silks, leather goods, and perfumes, transforming Hermès to appeal to a younger, modern consumer. Despite a brief attempt at public ownership in the 1990s, the Hermès family remains the majority shareholder.

Hermès Orange

Hermès' signature orange packaging has an interesting history that is deeply intertwined with the company's journey through challenging times. Originally, Hermès used cream-colored boxes with a gold border to package their luxury goods. However, during World War II, there was a significant shortage of materials, including the cream-colored paper they previously used. As a result, Hermès had to adapt and make use of what was available, which happened to be orange paper.

Despite the initial change being out of necessity, the orange boxes quickly became iconic. The vibrant orange color stood out and began to symbolize the brand's resilience and creativity during tough times. Over the years, this distinct shade of orange, now often referred to as "Hermès orange," became a key part of the brand’s identity. It represents the brand's commitment to quality and elegance, while also serving as a reminder of its adaptability and innovative spirit.

Today, the orange boxes are instantly recognizable and are cherished as a symbol of luxury and craftsmanship. The choice of orange, once a product of wartime scarcity, has become an enduring hallmark of Hermès, reflecting its storied history and prestigious legacy in the world of high fashion.

Commitment to Craftsmanship

The Hermès family and company reject mass production, assembly lines, and mechanization. Most Hermès products are crafted by professional artisans at French manufacturing facilities ("Ateliers Hermès"), ensuring quality and uniqueness as each item is created from start to finish by a single craftsman. As of 2008, Hermès has 14 product divisions, including leather, scarves, ties, men's wear, women's fashion, perfume, watches, stationery, footwear, gloves, enamel, decorative arts, tableware, and jewelry. Today, Jean-Louis's son Pierre-Alexis Dumas is the artistic director, leading the brand through significant growth.

The Birkin Bag

The Birkin bag, introduced in 1984, stands as the most sought-after, collectible bag ever made. Created by Hermès CEO Jean-Louis Dumas and actress Jane Birkin, the bag is handmade by expert artisans in France using the company's signature saddle stitching. Prices range from $10,500 to $150,000, varying based on leather and hardware, with limited distribution creating exclusivity. Birkins come in sizes from 25cm to 45cm, with distinct features such as rolled leather handles, a flap closure, and a padlock. A similar bag, and the original version of the Birkin, the Haut au Courries (HAC), is slightly taller with shorter straps.

Birkin bags are currently available in sizes: 20, 25, 30, 35, 40 and its larger counterpart, HAC comes in multiple sizes as well.

The Kelly Bag

The Kelly bag dates back to 1892. Originally called the Sac à Dépêches, renamed as the Kelly in 1977, when Grace Kelly famously covered her baby bump with one of these iconic bags. Each Kelly bag, handcrafted over 18 hours, features a draw-strap and lock mechanism similar to the Birkin, with a single top handle and optional shoulder strap. Kelly bags come in sizes from 20cm to 35cm and are available in two styles: Sellier, with a structured shape and exterior stitching, and Retourne, with a softer shape and interior stitching.

Kelly bags are currently available in sizes: 20, 25, 28, 32, 35, 40. There are some larger variations such as Kelly Voyage and Kelly Maxi 42.

Other Iconic Hermès Bags

Other popular Hermès bags include the Bolide, introduced in 1923 with the first use of a zipper in a handbag; the Evelyne, featuring the iconic perforated H; the Garden Party, a classic tote with expandable snap sides; the Constance, an elegant shoulder bag with a signature “H” clasp; the Picotin, a bucket-style bag with a roomy interior; the Jypsiere, a messenger style designed by Jean-Paul Gaultier; the Lindy, with two separate sides and zipper pulls; and man more.

Materials and Craftsmanship

Hermès uses a variety of high-quality metals, primarily 18k gold plated or palladium plated brass, with occasional use of permabrass, ruthenium, guilloche, rose gold, or diamond crusted hardware. The brand’s craftsmanship and detailing are further highlighted by its diverse leather offerings, including Togo, Clemence, Fjord, Evergrain, Epsom, Veau Grain Lisse, Courchevel, Grain d'H, Swift, Box Calf, Chamonix, Barenia, Vache, Tadelakt, Vache Hunter, Evercalf, Chevre Mysore, Chevre de Coromandel, Vache Liegee, Ardennes, Negonda, Buffalo, Grizzly, Veau Sikkim, Vache Trekking, and Vibrato. Each leather type, from the grained and textured Togo to the smooth and shiny Box Calf, contributes to the uniqueness and durability of Hermès products, ensuring their status as timeless masterpieces in the luxury market.

Hermes Ownership

In 2010, luxury conglomerate LVMH began accumulating shares in Hermès, raising concerns about a potential takeover. By 2014, the Hermès family, determined to maintain control, formed a holding company, H51, to consolidate over 50% of the shares. This strategic move successfully safeguarded Hermès' independence. Following intense legal battles and regulatory scrutiny, LVMH agreed in 2014 to redistribute its shares, ending its takeover bid. 

Hermès remains a predominantly family-owned business, with the descendants of the founding Hermès family holding a significant majority of the company's shares through H51. This ownership structure ensures that the family retains control over the company's strategic direction, preserving its legacy of craftsmanship and exclusivity.

Significant Dates

1837

Hermès is established as a harness-making shop in Paris. 

1879

Brand is still focused on equestrian goods, but expands as a second location is opened.

1922

First leather handbag is released by Hermès, the Haut à Courroies (HAC), intended for carrying riding boots and saddlery.

1923

First non-equestrian handbag released, the Bolide.

1935

First Kelly released, originally named the Sac a Depeches.

1956

Grace Kelly famously used a Sac a Depeches to cover her baby bump, creating massive attention to the brand.

1959

First Constance released. The bag got its name from a top Hermès designer, who named the design after her recently born child.

1977

Hermès renamed the Sac a Depeches to the “Kelly” bag after the famous 1956 photo of Grace Kelly brought massive popularity to the style.

1978

Evelyne released.

1981

Jane Birkin sat on the plane with Jean-Louis Dumas and designed the Birkin.

1984

First Birkin released by Jean-Louis Dumas for Jane Birkin. 

1996

Birkin 30 was introduced after customers requested and special ordered smaller sized birkins 

2000

Kelly II is introduced, with extra rings for the shoulder strap.

2000

First H zipper is introduced, but original zipper can still be found on bags up to 2007. By 2008, all bags had an H stop zipper.

2002

Picotin first released.

2004

Birkin 25 first released.

2006

HorseShoe Stamp (HSS) was introduced to signify custom order pieces. It was optional through 2007, and by 2008, they all had horseshoes.

2006

Inside lining of interior pocket on Birkin and Kelly changes from suede (unlined) to full chevre. Some 2006 bags still have suede lining. Some Croc bags were made with silk/ toile/ fabric but if not, it was fully chevre always.

2011

Saw some double-blind stamp (combined craftsman initials with year) JO in square.

2014

Some R stamps were seen without a square. Hermès “testing” new stamp.

2015

Date Code moves from behind sangle to inside, for most bags on the inner left gusset (side).

2016

Evelyne Sellier introduced.

2017

Sangle engraving changes from “Hermès-PARIS” to “-Hermès-PARIS-”.

1956

Grace Kelly famously used a Sac a Depeches to cover her baby bump, creating massive attention to the brand.

Authentication

Randolph Goods: Your Trusted Source for Authentic Hermès Handbags

Hermès luxury handbags are among the most coveted accessories in the world, with the iconic Hermès Birkin bag leading the way. Celebrities, royalty, heads of state, and fashion icons globally cherish these exceptional handbags. Given their extraordinary popularity and prices ranging from $8,000 to over $500,000, it's no surprise that the Birkin bag is the most counterfeited handbag in history. To safeguard against purchasing counterfeit Hermès bags, it’s crucial to know how to identify an authentic one.

Dedication to Authentication

At Randolph Goods, we understand the significance of owning a genuine Hermès handbag. With years of experience in the luxury resale market, we have honed our expertise to ensure every product meets the highest standards of authenticity. Our authentication process is both rigorous and comprehensive, combining art and science to verify each item meticulously.

Expertise and Commitment

Our team of luxury handbag experts meticulously authenticate every bag we sell through the most extensive and state-of-the-art methods. We are committed to providing only the highest quality products, ensuring that each Hermès handbag you purchase from us is genuine and meets the brand's exacting standards. Every item purchased from Randolph Goods comes with a Lifetime Authenticity Guarantee.

Using Our Knowledge to Empower You

At Randolph Goods, our mission extends beyond providing you with authentic Hermès handbags. We aim to empower you with the knowledge to authenticate Hermès bags, whether you purchase from us or elsewhere. Our extensive experience and dedication to rigorous authentication methods have enabled us to compile this detailed guide. We hope this resource helps you confidently identify genuine Hermès handbags and make informed purchasing decisions. Remember, the key to authenticity lies in the details—by paying close attention to the elements discussed in this guide, you can distinguish between genuine and counterfeit items.

Detailed Hermès Authentication Guide

The Embossed Hermes Logo

Location and Appearance: The iconic Hermès logo is embossed on the front of the bag under the flap, below the stitching. It should read,

 “HERMÈS 

PARIS

 MADE IN FRANCE”

The font should be in crisp block letters, with each line slightly smaller than the one above.

  • Texture and Spacing: The letters should be equally spaced, and the embossment may vary slightly depending on the texture of the leather. The natural variations in the leather can cause parts of the logo stamp to appear lighter or slightly spread, but this does not indicate a counterfeit. 
  • Common Counterfeit Indicators: Most fake Hermès bags have printed or pressed-in lettering instead of an embossed logo. The letters on fakes often show inconsistencies in font, size, or direction, and the spacing between the letters may be uneven. Additionally, the accent over the second “E” in Hermès might be too light or absent on counterfeit bags. 
The Leather or Skin
  • Leather Characteristics: Authentic Hermès bags are made from the highest quality leathers and skins, each displaying unique natural variations. For instance, Togo leather may have many veins, while another Togo bag might have none. Minor imperfections are common and indicate the authenticity of the leather. Authentic Hermes leather would never have a chemical/plastic feel or smell. Instead, it would feel very luxurious and supple, and have a very natural and rich leather scent.
  • Exotic Leathers: Authentic Hermès exotic bags, like those made from crocodile or alligator, have unique scale patterns. No two bags are the same, and variations in scale size and pattern are expected. Minor creasing or lines through the scales are also common in genuine bags.
  • Fake Leathers: Counterfeit bags often use highly textured leathers with unnatural consistency throughout. Fake crocodile bags might be made from embossed leather rather than genuine skin, resulting in uniformly consistent scales, which is a clear sign of a counterfeit.
The Stitching
  • Hand-Stitched Details: Every genuine Hermès bag is handmade and hand-stitched by skilled artisans using what is called the saddle stitch method. This type of stitching on an authentic Hermès bag will typically have a slight upward slant and will include some double stitches, especially on points of pressure like where the clochette closes or the handles are attached.
  • Thread Material: Hermes uses high quality, waxed threads that compliment the bag perfectly. It should never look overly shiny or synthetic, but instead more of a matte or natural finish. 
  • Stitch Variations: Due to the handcrafting process, the stitching will not be perfectly symmetrical on an authentic Hermes bag. It will still look uniform and well crafted, but the slight irregularity from handcrafting gives each bag its unique touch.
  • Fake Stitching: Counterfeit bags are usually machine-stitched, resulting in uniformly straight, small stitches. Even hand-stitched fakes lack the unique pattern typical of an authentic Hermès bag. Perfectly even stitching is a clear indication of a fake bag.There are high-end counterfeits that are saddle stitched, but the angle is often exaggerated or incorrect.
The Hardware
  • High Quality Genuine Metals: Authentic Hermès hardware is plated or finished in genuine precious metals, such as palladium or gold. More rarely, you might find brushed gold, rose gold, or ruthenium finishes. New bags have their hardware sealed in plastic for protection. The feet should have a small protective plastic film as well. Authentic Hermes bags do not come with protective rubber caps on the feet, however, you can find this on counterfeit bags. Although some people will also buy these caps aftermarket to protect their bag, a new bag would never come from the store with these rubber caps.
  • Engravings and Details: The plaques on the sangles of Birkin and Kelly bags are engraved with Hermès-PARIS. On gold-plated bags, there is a small box after PARIS with tiny writing inside that requires a loupe to read. This box is absent on palladium-plated bags, as it indicates the metal is gold. The font and spacing of these engravings may vary slightly, but counterfeit bags cannot replicate the precise lettering of authentic Hermès hardware. These engravings are laser etched and extremely crisp. They should have some depth and dimension to them, light should reflect when you look at a certain angle. Most counterfeit bags have printed or shallow engravings.
  • Other Hardware Elements: Authentic Birkin and Kelly bags have feet that are secure and cannot rotate or come off. The toggle and backplate should also be secure, and the toggle should turn smoothly. The rivets holding the hardware in place are squared at the top, a detail almost impossible to replicate on fake Hermès bags.
  • Fake Hardware: Counterfeit hardware often lacks the quality finish and precise engravings of genuine Hermès hardware. The feet, toggle, and rivets on fakes may be less secure or incorrectly shaped.
The Inside Zipper
  • Zipper Design: Hermès makes its own zippers, which feature the Hermès name engraved with the lower half towards the end of the metal zipper pull. A matching metal letter “H” is at the end of the zipper.
  • Zipper Operation: Zipping a Hermès bag should be a luxurious experience, with the zipper operating smoothly and never catching or being difficult to open or close. The zipper pull on a genuine Hermès bag remains parallel to the zipper at all times.
  • Fake Zippers: Counterfeit zippers may have a rough or shiny metal finish and may not include the correct engravings. The zipper pull on a fake might hang down at a 90-degree angle instead of remaining parallel.
The Lock & Keys

Authentic Locks:

  • Lock Details: Authentic Birkin and Kelly bags come with a lock engraved with “      Hermès” on the bottom, matching the other hardware on the bag. The number on the lock should match the number engraved on the accompanying keys.
  • Keys and Clochette: The keys should be attached with a leather string and fit neatly inside the leather clochette.
  • Fake Locks: Counterfeit locks and keys may not match the bag’s hardware and will feel lighter in weight. Often, the keys do not fit neatly into the clochette.
The Lining

Authentic Linings:

  • Materials and Quality: Most recently produced Hermès Birkin and Kelly bags are lined in chevre or goatskin, a lightly textured and very durable leather with a touch of sheen. The lining should have a rich feel and a subtle texture.
  • Fake Linings: Counterfeit Birkins and Kellys are often lined in leather or faux leather that lacks the richness and durability of chevre.
The Date & Craft Stamp

Blind Stamp:

  • Location and Details: Authentic Hermès handbags have a Blind Stamp embedded in the leather that includes the year of manufacture and the code for the artisan who produced the bag. The location of the Blind Stamp varies depending on the handbag style and year.
  • Recent Changes: Toward the end of 2015, Hermès relocated the Blind Stamp on Birkin and Kelly bags from the back of the closure strap to the inside of the bag on the left gusset. Current Blind Stamps start with the Date Code (year of production), followed by a series of numbers and letters, typically with two letters below.
  • Fake Stamps: Counterfeit bags might have missing, incorrect, or poorly executed Blind Stamps.
The Accompaniments

Dust Bag:

Over the years, Hermès has made several changes to the color, fabric, and design of their dustbags, reflecting both practical needs and aesthetic preferences.

VELVET DUSTBAGS 

Prior to the early 2000’s, Hermès dust bags were primarily made from a soft suede-like fabric, chosen for its ability to protect the delicate leather and hardware of Hermès products from dust and scratches. These velveteen dust bags were tan in color, bearing the Hermès logo in a contrasting color, typically a dark brown.

ORANGE DUSTBAGS

From the early 2000’s until about 2007, Hermès introduced cotton, flannel-like dust bags in their iconic orange color. These bags were made from durable cotton material and featured the classic Hermès logo in brown. The orange dust bags were short lived, as customers complained of orange color transfer from the dust bag to leather items. 

BEIGE HERRINGBONE

Current Design:

From 2007 until current. Today, Hermès dustbags are instantly recognizable for their quality and attention to detail. The standard beige herringbone fabric with the brown logo remains a staple, symbolizing the brand's heritage and commitment to excellence. However, Hermès occasionally introduces limited-edition dustbags in unique colors and fabrics for special collections or collaborations. “Blue box” limited edition bags also come with matching blue dustbags.

  • Authentic Dust Bags: Hermès’ current dust bags, since 2007, are made of high-quality, durable beige herringbone cotton. Vintage bags have dust bags made of tan velour, while other vintage dust bags are made of an orange cotton material. The signature “Le Duc” logo on the front of the dust bag is encased in a double circle, and the logo should be crisp.
  • Drawstrings: The strings at the top of the dust bag should be thick, durable, and secure.
  • Fake Dust Bags: Counterfeit dust bags often have a blurred logo, and the strings might be flimsy or poorly attached.

Authenticity Cards:

  • Hermès Policy: Unlike many other designers,Hermès bags do not include an authenticity card. Hermès has never issued an authenticity card and most likely never will.
  • Fake Authenticity Cards: Many fake Hermès bags come with an orange plastic authenticity card that says “Hermès.” If the bag comes with one of these cards, it is most definitely a fake.

These are just some of the ways to properly authenticate an Hermès handbag, which you can see involves scrutinizing even the smallest of elements. At Randolph Goods, we ensure the authenticity of every handbag we offer through our meticulous and expert authentication process. Use this guide to help you identify genuine Hermès bags and make informed purchasing decisions, whether from Randolph Goods or elsewhere.

Randolph Goods is your trusted source for authentic Hermès handbags. We are dedicated to providing you with the knowledge and tools to ensure the authenticity of your luxury purchases, empowering you to shop with confidence and appreciation for the unique beauty of genuine Hermès handbags.